Fez, or Fes, is the 2nd largest city in Morocco, home to 1.1 million Moroccans. I didn't realise the immense size of the place before we arrived here, and it was quite a shock to see the city sprawling across the landscape.
Gaz was more shocked that people weren't wearing Fez hats. He hasn't seen one and was a little disappointed when i explained that Fez hats are not made or worn here. They are only named Fez because of the classic red dye that was sourced from the city.
Edit: only 2 hours after posting this blog, Gaz stumbles across 3 Fez hats on a wall. Mission accomplished. I have a very happy fella right now lol.
Compared to the small places we've seen so far, Fes had quite a different feel to it. Tetouan was crazy and hectic with traffic, Chefchouan was busy but small and so friendly and welcoming. Even on the small streets, Fez feels big. It's the same feeling you get in a lot of faceless cities where there's a lot going on and you're not part of it. People don't say hello to be friendly, here it's all about the sale and the stallholders and shop owners can be quite insistent.
That's not to say that they're unpleasant; people smile and speak but the fact that they are chasing a sale is clear from the outset. Gaz went for a walk on his own one day and got chatting to a couple of people who were very friendly insisting that he didn't need to buy anything, while placing a kaftan over his head and telling him that he looked amazing! I always think that us Brits are happy to spend money, but we like to be wooed into it. There is no wooing here. But if you do want to buy quality artisan items, you can find many here. Whereas Chefchouan was all about the fridge magnet market, Fez medina is the real deal. Yes there are shops selling souvenirs, but the souks are frequented by local people and for every souvenir shop, there are 2 food stalls, a cafe and an artisan craft shop.
The streets of the medina are wider, but crammed full of small shops side by side and local people rushing past one another. It's louder than the Chefchouan medina - the chatter and music supported by the sounds of street cooking and the general hustle and bustle. Stepping into a quiet cafe or restaurant is a welcome calm.
Prices in Fes are at times double what they were in Chefchouan; MAD 70 / c.£6.50
for a vegetable tagine in Fes, compared to MAD 40 / c.£3.50 in Chefchouan, MAD 90 /c.£8.50 for a prawn tagine in Fes, compared to MAD 55 / c.£5 in Chefchouan.
We stayed about 300m outside of the medina in a friendly but basic hotel that provided simple, no-frills, clean rooms with en-suite, air conditioning and WiFi, in a traditional moroccan riad. Free breakfast on the roof terrace each day and a 24hr front desk. For £20 a night, it's a bargain and a great location.
Breakfast has been of a lower quality than we've had elsewhere (chocolate mousse included?) but still gratefully received as we're trying to stick to our monthly budget. We're right next door to a Police headquarters (Surete Nationale), and opposite the walls to a royal palace compound. We have signs in our accommodation warning us not to take photos of the walls as this is illegal! We haven't attempted it, largely because there really is nothing to photograph actually, and there are uniformed sentries every 200m along the wall. Despite how bored they look, or how apparently disengaged from the job they're supposed to be doing, I'm not sure I'd provoke them to see what happened.
Hotel:
Hotel Fontaine Campini
15 Run Canpini Batha
30000 Fès
Morocco
Whilst I would only ever recommend this hotel, it is the siting of our first moroccan cockroach. Gaz was quite disgusted and as the siting was in the bathroom, we now sleep with the door closed, to save him from being attacked in the night.
A slice of the action
Did you know that paprika has healing properties? I found this out quite by chance when a local man came to my rescue. We had been wandering the medina searching for a restaurant that took our fancy but, the more we looked, the more the prices seemed to be increasing and the food options reducing. We went further and further into the medina and eventually I saw a menu that seemed ok, but before we could discuss it, we were being ushered to 'come and see the good terrace', and I let myself be taken.
Immediately it became clear that the terrace was upwards, and so we started to climb a narrow set of steep tiled stairs. After 2 flights and when facing the 3 final set of very tiny steep stairs in front of the loudest Moroccan rhythm band playing to an audience of 30ish people, Gaz looked at me with concern but I'd started so I was going to finish! I scrambled up the final few stairs and sat down on the terrace to realise that i'd sliced my hand on something on the way up. The waiter was all concern and rushed off to get some napkins. He returned with some paprika insisting that this needed to be added to the wound first and then dabbed with a clean cloth. I've since looked it up, and apparently this is a recommended use for paprika - it has vitamin E in it and encourages red blood cells as well as having antiseptic properties.
In terms of the restaurant, well the terrace was not 'good'. It was uninteresting and not very pretty and only 2 others were there. I started to have significant doubts about the place. But in fairness, my doubts were unfounded. Within 15 minutes, the terrace was packed and when our food arrived it was delicious. The Moroccan Rhythm band that Gaz swore were taking part in Morocco's Got Talent downstairs also came up in their break, and lit up a few joints which wafted over on the breeze adding a little extra to our meal.
We've had a lovely time in Fes; there is more to see than just the vast old city. On the hill to the north of the town lie ancient ruins of a royal necropolis, and the 16th century fort still stands in all its glory, now a museum of weaponry that is genuinely interesting to visit, and is a great spot to see the expanse of the city from and follow the remaining walls that still line the exterior of the medina. The gates, or gardens throughout the city are also worth visiting, and offer a change of pace to the busy city streets. But as always, it's the people you interact with that leave a lasting impression.
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