The morning of 22nd December started like no other this month - i was awake very early! But it started well; phone charged, sun cream and Deet applied and I was off to a 7.30am start, only 30 minutes behind schedule. 'No problemo' I thought, 'I can make the time up should be back for 6pm easily'. :-) More on that – later!
The first leg began by cycling past ION windsurf hire, I’ll be there next week, onto shell cemetery and past a large salt patch then onto the Kite Surf School. Some places were very sandy so the bike kept stopping leaving me to push the bike, but I was expecting this so I wasn’t too bothered. After about 30 mins I had arrived at the Zip line. I didn’t have a go, mainly because it was 45 euros and I didn’t really want to splash out that much on a 5 minute thrill.
I tried to follow the coast around around Serra Negra, a large black peak of rock, and this was my first wrong decision. I got about 500 metres around the mountain and it was apparent that there was no possible cycle route, so I had to double back and carry on to the next stop, Shark Bay.
To get there I had to go along long sandy patch where I had to push bike a few Km, but that was nothing compared to what was coming.
I got lost near the windmills, where I thought I was able to cycle nearer the coast, so I came inland by about 100-200 metres and nearly got trampled by a wild herd of goats.
Finally arrived at Shark Bay, and no I didn't take a dip.
Next stop was Pedra de Lume, where I made a terrible mistake. I had been going for about 5 hours and already drank 1.5L of water, and had another 1.5L with me. I should have bought more water while i had the opportunity, but I decided against it as the next leg (to the Mirage Bar) wasn't nearly as far and I was going to have the wind behind me.
So after a chorizo buttie, a few more gulps of water I revisited the Salt lakes at Pedra de Lume. (Awesome place - you can bob up and down like a cork in a sink with absolutely no effort. And for only 5 euros, a great day out if you can get there.)
According to my planned route, the next waypoint was going to be this hut/building shown on the map. I was pretty certain (for no real reason) that it was a science post, possibly set up to monitor the volcano. Well, as I approached three mad dogs came over, obviously guard dogs and were barking pretty fiercely. Anyway I wasn't going to be stopped by Heuy, Duey and Louie so I got some chorizo out of my bag and gave some to each of the dogs - they were my new best mates! However the soldier approaching with the rifle wasn't so easily bribed with a bit of spicy meat. He told me, or rather his rifle did, to piss off and get off his land. Yeah, I wasn't really gonna ague so I veered off route and that’s when the troubles started.
Now my original plan was to go past this building carry on north and try to maintain a level terrain to minimise any effort pushing the bike. What I most definitely was not expecting was a landscape that was full of lava rocks, with hundreds (felt like hundreds) of ditches and ridges. This continued for about 5-10Km. I was basically having to carry a 25Kg bike up and down the ditches and ridges. The landscape looked like the surface of the moon. All in a blazing midday sun. Every hundred odd metres I had to stop for a rest. I felt like Frodo taking the ring up Mount Mordor; every step was getting harder and I swear, like the ring, the bike was getting heavier.
My water was rapidly running out and because some of the ridges were so high I was losing all sense of direction. Maybe Anna was going to cash that insurance policy in after all. What could I do? should I turn back? I had come quite a way by now so was sure I hadn't far to go. No problem, I got my phone out and checked in with TomTom.
!!!!!!FUCK-Fuckity fuck!!!!!!, is that all I had travelled?
Time to ration that water. From now on, tiny sips and later on I would just rinse my mouth just to get the impression I drank some water. I think I saw that tip on Flight of the Phoenix, or maybe Carry on Follow That Camel.
Eventually I made it to the north coast. I thought that pushing the bike on sand, although tough, would be easier than pushing on lava rock. The coast was pretty rocky, but it was easier to push/carry the bike so I felt I made the right choice. I did come across a lovely cove and couldn’t resist going into that lovely cool water, I sat in that sea for about ten minutes; boy did my muscles need it.
The next leg was uphill and again full of lava rocks and crevices, but eventually I got to the high point and I let out a massive whoop, I could see a track and a lighthouse in the distance. Eventually I got to the track and yes I could begin cycling again.
It was mostly downhill from now on and I got back down to the coast, found that in the middle of nowhere, with not a soul for miles, someone had made a wall in the shape of a C, about 1 Metre high and there was a chest freezer in the middle. Odd. Weirdly sinister. No way was I gonna open that box Mr Noel Edmonds.
From now on the route was very easy. The path to Terra Boa was flat, firm, no rocks and the wind was behind me - happy days, good times indeed.
I got to the Mirage Bar, but as I feared, sods law, it was shut. Not surprising given it was around 6pm and starting to get dark.
The capital, Espargos, was only a few Km and I had been on this dirt road before so I smashed the water and pedalled onwards. Just as I hit the town, I saw a small shop (HALLELUJAH) but they had only 5L bottles of water so instead I grabbed 2L of full fat coke and guzzled it down in seconds. The three locals chatting outside the shop were laughing when I told them where I had come from and where I was going.
Because it was now getting dark, I decided to go straight back to Santa Maria along the main road (EN1-SL-01) rather than explore the west coast. I was disappointed but had run out of time. I had so far cycled and scrambled about 30 miles in 11 hours so it was time to head home. There’s a path along the main road through the island so although it was pitch black, I felt pretty safe coming home. Not really much to tell about this part of the route as it was mostly unlit and cut through uninhabited parts of the island.
Getting back to base after 40 miles and 12.5 hours, realising I stunk worse than a pair of tramps underpants meant a quick shower before setting off to the Columbus Bar where Anna had been waiting for a long time. Looking at her, I noticed a tear in her eye. Maybe it was sand or sun-cream in her eye or perhaps she appeared emotional because she wasn’t getting a big insurance payout after all. But in all honesty I think she was simply glad I made it back in one piece and that was good enough for me.
So cycling around Sal.... Don't do it bud, it’s impossible, at least impossible to do a coastal ride that is. If you do it, what I would recommend is take water, lots of it. Cycle to the Pedra de Lume, and meet someone with a car that can take the bike off you and meet up at the Mirage Bar. That way you can probably just walk or scramble around the top and don't go towards that building on the volcano! Keep to the coast road, I had a look on some satellite imagery and there does appear to be the making of a path in that direction. Good luck!
Awesome adventure Garry. A ride to remember.....)